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Carmel / Monterey |
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Carmel / Monterey
Every year two populations make a pilgrimage to the Monterey Peninsula: Whales cruise past the coast on their annual migration, and every October, a cloud of monarch butterflies settles in for a long winter’s nap in Pacific Grove. What brings them back every year? No one knows. But it’s no secret what keeps human visitors coming back again and again: golf, romance, kid-friendly activities, and warm California sun for much of the year.
Activities and Attractions: The heart of Monterey is the historic Cannery Row where you can see remnants of John Steinbeck’s world. But the main attraction in town now is the world-famous Monterey Bay Aquarium, one of the best in the world. Sharks, jellyfish, penguins, barracuda, sea turtles, and more are all on display in several salt-water tanks, one of which holds over a million gallons.
Cannery Row is also the launching point for whale watching cruises. You might see a whale any day of the year, but even if you don’t, wild seals, sea otters, and dolphins will likely make up for it.
Just east of Monterey is the quaint Victorian town of Pacific Grove, winter home of migrating monarch butterflies. The sight of thousands of the colorful insects warming their wings in a single tree is not one you will soon forget.
If you’re going to spoil a good walk, why not at least follow in the footsteps of some of the greats? Jack Nicklaus, Tom Kite, and Tiger Woods have all made their mark on the famed Pebble Beach Golf Links. Remarkably, the grand old course is open to the public. There are numerous other courses in the area, including the celebrity-heavy Spyglass Hill, and plenty of other challenging turf.
At the south shore of the peninsula is Carmel-by-the-Sea, a former artist colony most famous for having had Clint Eastwood serve as its mayor in the 1980s. The tony enclave has some nice beaches (though the water’s a little cold), an historic 1793 mission, and lots of gallery and boutique shopping on Ocean Avenue.
Monterey is one of the nation’s premiere top-down destinations. The region’s coastline and beautiful country roads just beg to be driven. Between Carmel and Hearst Castle, 90 miles down the coast, is the stretch of Highway 1 generally referred to as Big Sur. This winding, coastal road is a thrilling drive, taking you through cypress forests and along the edge of precipices plunging down to the ocean far below. From the road, you can often see whales spouting far offshore, but don’t look too long—this is a two-hand, full-attention drive.
A tamer, but also striking trip is 17-Mile Drive. This toll road passes through Pacific Grove and Pebble Beach, giving you a glimpse of the ocean, golf courses, and mansions. Another pleasant drive is Carmel Valley Road. This country highway cuts through the heart of the secluded Carmel Valley, home of the horse ranches of gentlemen farmers and the vineyards of up-and-coming wine makers.
Insider Tip: Many drivers find that one trip along the demanding Route 1 is enough. If you’re only going to do Route 1 one way, do it driving south. That’s the most dramatic direction, because you’re driving on the side of the road closest to the ocean. Going north, take 101, a much faster inland freeway.
-Exclusively for Perfect Escapes by Nicole Clausing |
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